The small town of BATH has an exceptionally long history of shipbuilding : the first vessel to be constructed and launched here was the Virginia in 1607, by Sir George Popham's short-lived colony. Bath Iron Works , founded in 1833, attracted job-seeking Irishmen in such numbers as to provoke a mob of anti-immigrant "Know-Nothings" to burn down the local Catholic church in July 1854. The works continue to produce ships - during World War II, more destroyers were built here than in all Japan - and only admit visitors for special occasions such as ceremonial launchings. However, at the Maine Maritime Museum , 243 Washington St, next to the Iron Works two miles south of the town center (daily 9.30am-5pm; $9), you can tour a functioning shipyard where apprentices learn to build wooden schooners using traditional techniques.

As you head up the coast, accommodation starts to be better value. The Inn at Bath (tel 207/443-4294 or 1-800/423-0964, ; $75-100/$100-130), 969 Washington St, is a wonderful B&B with beautiful gardens and all the amenities. For a more rural experience, try the Fairhaven Inn on North Bath Road (tel 207/443-4391 or 1-888/443-4391; $75-100), which has shared and private bathrooms, serves a fine full breakfast, and offers hiking and cross-country skiing in season.

Places to eat include Kristina's , 160 Centre St (tel 207/442-8577), specializing in inventive American dishes and serving up great breads and desserts; and Beale Street Barbecue & Grill (tel 207/442-9514) on 215 Water St, offering slow-smoked chicken, pulled pork and ribs, to stay or to go. Be warned, however, that everything in Bath closes very early in the evenings.